Every Dragon Needs a Heart

I was born in an Eastern country, and I grew up on myths and dragon tales. My grandma used to tell me stories about dragons—not as monsters to be killed, but as wise, powerful, mysterious beings. Those stories taught me something that stuck: real strength isn't in claws or teeth. It's deeper than that. It's in patience. In precision. In quietly sticking with what you love.

Thirty-eight years later, I'm at my workbench, pouring all of that—Eastern attention to detail, and my love for dragons—into every die.

I tried different materials and techniques along the way. But resin chose me, just like I chose it. There's something almost magical about watching a translucent liquid slowly turn into a solid that holds light, color, and energy.

Now, every Dice of Dragons set is made with no assembly lines, no mass production. Just me and my hands.

The master die is the source of every mold, and the foundation of precision. Before I make any mold, I have to create a master die that's flawless—every number, every edge, every corner has to meet the highest standard.

I make every master die by hand, carefully carving and polishing each face. I make sure every number is the same depth, every edge has the right angle, every corner has a consistent curve. Because even a tiny mistake here gets multiplied in every mold and every cast that follows.

Once the master is done, I check it under different lights and run my fingers over every detail.

The master die sets the DNA for the whole set. I never compromise on this first step.

After the master die is done, the next step is making the silicone molds.

Most people never see what goes into this. But this is where a die's soul is shaped. The mold is what transfers the precision of the master die to every finished die.

I make every mold myself, using professional-grade, tear-resistant silicone. It copies every detail from the master—the depth of the numbers, the sharpness of the edges, the texture of the surfaces. I guard all of that carefully during the molding process.

The molds need to be bubble-free and crystal-clear. Every new mold goes through multiple test casts before I approve it. If it doesn't pass? I scrap the whole thing and start over. And silicone wears out over time—so I replace my molds regularly to make sure every batch stays at the highest precision.

Every Dice of Dragons set starts with a feeling, a color palette, an emotion I want to capture in resin.

I draw from two worlds: the rich visual heritage of the East, and the epic storytelling of Western fantasy.

From the East, I take the quiet elegance of ink wash paintings, the layered translucency of ancient jade, the restraint that says more with less. From the West, I take the dramatic fire of dragon battles, the mystery of dark forests, and the glow of hidden treasures.

The stuff you can't see matters just as much as what you can. The difference between a good die and a great one often comes down to materials. And I don't cut corners where it counts.

High-quality epoxy resin – I use UV-resistant resin that stays clear and resists yellowing over time. Cheap resin turns yellow and cloudy within months. Mine stays clear or keeps its original color for years. It's also impact-resistant, so your dice can survive drops and bumps during games.

Professional-grade pigments – I source them from professional art and industrial design suppliers. They're highly concentrated, lightfast, and chemically stable—no fading, no bleeding, no weird changes over time. The color you see is the color it'll stay.

Micro-fine glitters and inclusions – I only use the finest stuff: crushed abalone shell powder, ultra-fine holographic flakes, specially treated mica powders. They're small enough to suspend evenly in the resin, giving a deep starry-sky effect without feeling rough or gritty.

Precision numbering ink – I use professional-grade acrylic ink that's made for adhesion and durability. I ink every single number by hand, using fine-tipped tools. Each set goes through multiple rounds of drying and cleaning, so the numbers are sharp, high-contrast, and won't peel, fade, or wear off.

But good materials are just the start. Temperature, mixing ratios, curing time—how you handle these details is what sets craft apart from just making stuff.

Making a set of dice is worth doing slowly and carefully.

Step 1: Color Mixing
I mix the resin and hardener in exact ratios—too much hardener and the dice get brittle, too little and they won't fully cure. Then I add pigments drop by drop, adjusting until the color is spot on. This isn't about following a recipe—it's about intuition built from hundreds of hours of practice.

Step 2: Casting
I pour the resin into the molds I made myself. During the working window—when the resin is still fluid but hasn't set—I get rid of bubbles and make sure everything is evenly distributed. The molds sit in a pressure pot to cure for 24 to 72 hours.

Step 3: Demolding and Trimming
I pop the cured dice out of the molds. This is the first moment of truth. Then I carefully trim any excess material and clean up the mold lines without damaging the surface.

Step 4: Sanding and Polishing
I start with 400-grit sandpaper and work my way up through finer grits—all the way to 3000 and beyond. I sand in multiple directions to remove scratches and build a smooth, even surface. Then I use professional polishing compounds and buffing wheels to bring out that deep glass-like shine. This stage alone takes 1 to 2 hours per set.

Step 5: Inking the Numbers
After a thorough cleaning, I ink every number by hand with fine-tipped tools. Once the ink dries, I clean the surface again, leaving clean, crisp marks inside the engravings.

Step 6: Final Quality Check
I check every die under natural light, warm light, and cool light—looking at smoothness, color accuracy, clarity, number readability, weight, and balance. If any die fails on any of these, it doesn't get shipped. No exceptions.

Made by hand, checked by me – Every die passes through my hands multiple times—from mixing to polishing to final inspection. No middlemen, no outsourcing. I make sure what reaches you is exactly what I want it to be.

Worldwide shipping with full tracking – Straight from my workbench in China to your door. Full tracking included. Most US addresses get their dice in 7 to 15 days. If anything goes wrong during shipping, I'll work with you to fix it.

One of a kind, just for you – Handmade means no two sets are exactly the same. The swirls, the color transitions, where the inclusions land—these are marks of individuality, not flaws. Your dice are yours alone. And you're not buying from some big company. You're buying from me.